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14/01/2015 00:48:11![]() Posts: 0 |
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14/01/2015 07:17:17![]() Mark Pollington Posts: 17 | Hi, they normally leak between the join in hull and deck, particularly shroud area. Pressurise and use soapy water to test. Epoxy/filler the leaks and make the breather hole in the transom bigger to allow the boat to breath more easily. Mark Tweet |
14/01/2015 10:12:35![]() Alex Reid Posts: 31 |
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14/01/2015 11:40:31![]() Dingzie Posts: 26 | Hi, Recently purchased a boat (not in water yet) and noticed some tape around bowsprit strap, looks like strap has been changed from stainless steel to plastic. The chrome tack bar at front also has tape around edges where screws enter deck. Are these know points of entry for water? Looks like some type of filler has been used between metal and deck. How do you pressurise the boat? bicycle pump with some type of modified bug plug? Wheres the breather hole?..is there a smoke pellet you can pop in there? Sorry for all the questions new owner/sailer of old boat! Appreciated Harry Tweet |
14/01/2015 16:01:54![]() Posts: 0 | I not sure a smoke pellet will work very well inside a damp boat. Tension up the boat, stick a bit of tape over the breather hole (under the top rudder fitting on my boat) and cover it in soapy water. I use a hose with a enough insulation tape wrapped around so it is larger than the hole and then press it against the hole. Its much easier with 2 people but I have found if you stick a load of tape over most of the hole first and then use the hose, it is possible to stick a bit of tape over the last bit and seal in some pressure while you run around looking for bubbles. Don't over pressurise the boat - it only needs one big breath. I have been surprised at how much water can leak under fittings (back to that cooling the boat surface when you capsize that sucks the water in). On my boat when I first had it, I discovered under a cleat older holes that had not been filled when the fitting was moved a bit and that really seem to suck it in. I'm also a huge fan of using plexus rather than epoxy or silicone as it really sticks to the boat and is easy to file and will take a screw direct. I'm also using it to repair foil edges at it is harder, quicker and easier to use than gel coat - shame it goes yellow but hey. Tweet |
14/01/2015 16:14:42![]() Posts: 0 | Harry - A photo of the bow and its straps may be helpful. There should be 2 metal loops on the front of the bow that hold the pole when it is extended and a plastic strap further back that just guides the pole when it comes in - the plastic one does get modified with tubing and cable ties etc. Sounds scary if either of the front ones are now plastic. All the screw heads are covered to stop the fibres in the kite from snagging underneath. Everything needs to be rock solid though so if they are loose you need to solve that. My own preference is to take off the fitting, remove anything loose and then fill everything with MA300 plexus including pumping a bit down the hole. After it cures, you can just re-drill the holes. Suspect you can do it with other gloop too. If the front metal hoops, the bow bar or shroud mountings are loose, that could be a bit more serious but there are other on the forums that can help if that is the case. Tweet |
13/05/2015 20:44:55![]() Dingzie Posts: 26 |
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04/07/2015 09:52:30![]() Dingzie Posts: 26 | ..update on removing the bowspit I could see where some of the gel coat had cracked, on tapping with my hand along the channel it was hollow sounding and more gelcoat was removed, kind of delaminated from the fibre layer so had to remove about 8 or 10 inches along it. The guy fixing it said there was a slight incline or dip which could have been there from the time of manufacture, for now just building up the layers with gelcoat. Tweet |